Almora by road: the quick answer
Almora is about 370 km from Delhi by road, via NH9 to Rampur, then Haldwani, Kathgodam, Bhowali and up the Kosi valley, usually 9 to 10 hours. From Kathgodam station it is about 90 km. A chauffeur-driven sedan from Delhi is Rs 13,320 Pay Now to Reserve one way and an Innova Crysta Rs 21,090 Pay Now to Reserve, with 5% GST on top.
Where Nainital is Kumaon's holiday resort, Almora is its old capital and its conscience. The Chand kings moved their seat here in the sixteenth century and built the town along a horseshoe-shaped ridge at about 1,650 metres, and much of that older Almora survives: the flagstone lanes of Lala Bazaar with their carved wooden balconies, the Nanda Devi temple at its heart, and neighbourhoods where families have lived for generations. Writers, dancers, spiritual seekers and scholars have been drawn here for more than a century, from Swami Vivekananda, who meditated at Kasar Devi, to the artists and travellers who later made its ridge famous.
It is also the best base for some of the finest heritage in the Himalaya. Jageshwar's grove of stone temples, the sun temple at Katarmal and the forest reserve of Binsar are all within an hour or so. You need a car for all of this, and a driver who knows the ridge roads. RutzIndia.com offers one-way drops and round trips from Delhi NCR, Kathgodam and Pantnagar, and multi-day Kumaon circuits that string Almora together with Ranikhet, Kausani and Mukteshwar.
Things to see in Almora and nearby
In town
- Lala Bazaar and the Mall. Walk the stone-paved bazaar for copperware, woollens and the town's famous sweets. The upper Mall road gives long views across the valley.
- Nanda Devi temple. The spiritual centre of old Almora, dedicated to the goddess who is the region's protector. The Nanda Devi fair in late summer is the town's biggest celebration.
- Bright End Corner. A viewpoint at the southern end of the ridge, popular at sunset, with views over the surrounding hills.
- Govind Ballabh Pant Public Museum. A small state museum with Kumaoni art, archaeology and folk objects.
Just outside
- Kasar Devi. About 8 km north, a hilltop temple where Swami Vivekananda meditated in 1890. The ridge below, known as Crank's Ridge, has long drawn writers and travellers, and today has cafés and guesthouses with sweeping Himalayan views.
- Chitai Golu Devta temple. About 8 km away, a temple to the local god of justice, hung with countless bells and written petitions from devotees.
- Katarmal Sun Temple. About 17 km away, a Katyuri-era temple complex dedicated to the sun, protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.
- Jageshwar Dham. About 36 km away, a group of more than a hundred stone temples in a deodar forest by a stream, among the most important Shiva shrines in the hills. It is an ASI-protected site with a site museum; the Archaeological Survey of India lists it among its monuments.
- Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. About 30 km away, oak and rhododendron forest with Zero Point, a short walk from the forest rest house area, offering one of the widest Himalayan panoramas in Kumaon. An entry fee applies at the gate; check the current amount locally.
For more detail, the Uttarakhand Tourism Almora page and the Almora district website are good starting points.
The route: Delhi to Almora
Across the plains
The first 280 km are the familiar Kumaon approach: the Delhi-Meerut Expressway and NH9 through Hapur, Garhmukteshwar and Moradabad, then Rampur, Bilaspur and Rudrapur into Uttarakhand, and on to Haldwani. It is a fast, tolled highway with good dhaba stops; the slowest parts are usually the Moradabad bypass and Haldwani town.
Into the hills
At Kathgodam the hills rise straight up from the plains. The road climbs to Bhimtal and Bhowali, then drops to follow the Kosi river through Garampani and Khairna to Kwarab, where it bridges the river and climbs the final stretch to Almora. The Kosi valley section is pleasant and not too steep, with small riverside dhabas selling tea and pakoras. Allow 3 to 3.5 hours from Kathgodam to Almora.
Arriving by air or rail
Kathgodam, about 90 km away, is the nearest railway station, with direct trains from Delhi. Pantnagar airport is about 125 km away. We meet trains and flights with a name board, track delays, and wait 30 minutes free after domestic arrivals, after which waiting is billed at the hourly rate.
If you would rather spend a night in the Nainital area on the way, our Delhi to Nainital taxi page covers that first leg.
When to go to Almora
- March to June: clear, warm days and cool nights, rhododendrons in spring. The best season for walking and for Binsar.
- July to mid-September: monsoon. Green and misty, fewer tourists, but slips on the Kosi valley road and hidden mountain views.
- Late September to December: the finest months for Himalayan views, with crystal-clear mornings. Almora's Dussehra, when the town parades dozens of large painted effigies, is a highlight.
- January and February: cold and bright, with occasional snow on Kasar Devi and Binsar. Pack warm.
No special permits are needed for Almora, Jageshwar or Katarmal. Binsar has a sanctuary entry fee.
Chauffeured car options and Almora fares
All fares are calculated from our per-km rates and shown before 5% GST. We pass on tolls, parking and any state charges at the actual amount. The driver's overnight allowance is Rs 1,500 for each night away, and round trips are charged on the actual kilometres or a minimum of 250 km per calendar day, whichever is greater.
| Almora journey | Compact sedan | Premium sedan | Innova Crysta | Tempo Traveller |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Delhi to Almora, one way (about 370 km) | Rs 13,320 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 17,760 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 21,090 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 28,860 Pay Now to Reserve |
| Kathgodam station to Almora (about 90 km, minimum fare applies) | Rs 3,960 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 5,940 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 6,930 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 10,740 Pay Now to Reserve |
| Almora to Kausani, one way (about 75 km, minimum fare applies) | Rs 3,960 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 5,940 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 6,930 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 10,740 Pay Now to Reserve |
| Kumaon circuit from Delhi, 4 days (1,000 km billed) | Rs 36,000 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 48,000 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 57,000 Pay Now to Reserve | Rs 78,000 Pay Now to Reserve |
- Solo travellers and couples are well served by a compact sedan or a premium sedan such as a Honda City.
- Families of five or six will be more comfortable in an Innova Crysta on rent.
- Groups, school trips and pilgrim parties to Jageshwar can hire a Tempo Traveller on rent.
- Need a car around Delhi first? Our taxi service in Delhi handles airport transfers and local hire.
Every car is within four model years. A cancellation made more than 72 hours before pickup is free; one made inside 72 hours costs 10%, inside 48 hours 50%, and inside 24 hours, or a no-show, the entire fare. Read the cancellation policy for details.
A 3-day Almora itinerary by car
Day 1: Delhi to Almora (about 370 km). Leave by 5.30 or 6 am. Breakfast at Gajraula, lunch at Haldwani or Bhowali, tea by the Kosi at Khairna, and reach Almora before sunset. Evening walk to Bright End Corner.
Day 2: Jageshwar and Chitai (about 90 km of local driving). Morning at Chitai Golu Devta temple, then on to Jageshwar for the temple complex and the ASI museum. Picnic lunch among the deodars. Afternoon return via Kasar Devi for sunset on the ridge.
Day 3: Katarmal and onward (about 20 km, then the next leg). Visit the Katarmal Sun Temple in the morning, then either drive home to Delhi or continue into the hills: Kausani is about 75 km away and Ranikhet about 50 km. See our Kausani by road guide and Ranikhet by road guide for those legs, or our Mukteshwar by road guide for the orchard country to the south.
What to eat and buy in Almora
Almora's sweet shops are an institution. Bal mithai, a brown fudge of roasted khoya coated in tiny white sugar balls, is the town's signature, and singori, khoya sweet wrapped in a cone of maalu leaf, is a close second; both travel reasonably well for a couple of days. For meals, try a Kumaoni thali with bhatt ki churkani, gahat dal, bhang ki chutney (made from hemp seeds, not intoxicating) and mandua rotis. The copper-working lanes near the bazaar sell hand-beaten copper vessels, and several shops stock woollens from the local cooperative weaving units.
Where to stay around Almora
Almora spreads over several ridges, and each has its own mood. The town centre, around the Mall and the bazaar, has older hotels and guesthouses within walking distance of the Nanda Devi temple and the sweet shops, best if you like to explore on foot in the evenings. Kasar Devi and Crank's Ridge, about 20 minutes north, are the choice for most independent travellers: small guesthouses and cafés perched on the ridge, spectacular sunrise views and a relaxed, bookish atmosphere. Binsar and the forest estates offer heritage lodges and eco-resorts deep in oak forest, peaceful but a longer drive from town, and Jageshwar has simple lodges for pilgrims who want to attend the early rituals.
Tell us your hotel when you book. The approach roads to some ridge properties are narrow and steep, and the driver may park at a wider spot and walk the last few metres with your bags.
Practical tips for an Almora road trip
- Start early. Almora is at the far end of a long day; arriving by daylight makes the Kosi valley stretch safer and more enjoyable.
- Parking in town is tight. The old bazaar is pedestrian, and parking spots near the Mall fill quickly. Your driver will drop you and wait at a designated area.
- Carry cash for small temples. Donations, prasad and parking at Jageshwar and Chitai are usually cash.
- Dress respectfully at temples. Cover shoulders and remove shoes where asked.
- Layer up. Almora is warmer than Nainital, but mornings in October to March are cold.
- Allow time at Jageshwar. The complex is larger than many expect; two hours is the minimum.
